Trabzon, Turkey — If ancient walls could speak, the Sümela Monastery in northeastern Turkey would tell tales spanning empires, faiths, and centuries of survival.
Founded in the 4th century CE by Greek Orthodox monks along the remote cliffs of the Pontic Alps, the monastery has stood witness to the transformation of the Roman Empire into Byzantium, the rise of the Ottoman Empire, the collapse of imperial rule after World War I, and nearly a century of abandonment and decay — before an astonishing rebirth in modern times.
Clinging to a sheer rock face nearly 1,000 feet (300 meters) above a river valley in Altındere National Park, the Sümela complex feels almost otherworldly — a blend of chapels, courtyards, monastic dwellings, sacred springs and vivid frescoes seemingly carved into the mountainside.
Though it no longer serves as an active religious community, the monastery now draws thousands of visitors each day — both pilgrims and curious travelers — many captivated by its stunning location and centuries-old religious art. Sümela is currently on UNESCO’s Tentative List for World Heritage status.
Years of painstaking restoration have stabilized the cliffside site and brought damaged frescoes back to life. “We had constant problems with falling rocks,” says Levent Alniak, director of museums and heritage sites for Trabzon Province. “We brought in industrial climbers to secure the cliff with steel mesh and barriers to protect both the buildings and visitors.”
Among the discoveries during restoration was a hidden chapel accessed through a narrow tunnel, likely used as a defensive lookout. Inside, archaeologists uncovered previously unseen frescoes depicting heaven, hell, life, and death.
Some of the monastery’s most striking frescoes remain inside the so-called Rock Church, where soaring images of Christ, the Virgin Mary, saints, and martyrs line the cave-like interior. Many of the lower images have been vandalized — faces gouged out, paint chipped away. While some speculate this was done for religious reasons, local guide Öznur Doksöz offers another theory: “People believed the paint from the Virgin Mary’s image had healing powers. They scratched the frescoes, boiled the pigment, and drank it for blessings. We can’t say for sure, but that’s the story.”
The monastery’s origins are steeped in legend. It is said to have been founded after two Athenian monks, Barnabas and Sophronios, were led to the site by a vision of the Virgin Mary. Inside a cave, they discovered a sacred icon said to be painted by Saint Luke himself — the Panagia Soumela. The cave became a place of pilgrimage, and by the 13th century, an extensive monastic complex was built under the last Christian kingdom of the region.
When the Ottomans took control in 1461, they surprisingly supported the monastery, granting land and protection as long as the monks remained loyal. Sümela continued to thrive until the early 20th century.
After the Greco-Turkish War and population exchange in 1923, the monks fled to Greece, hiding relics in the valley along the way. The icon of the Panagia Soumela was later recovered and now resides at a namesake monastery in northern Greece.
By the 1970s, Turkish authorities began preserving the abandoned site. In 2010, the monastery hosted its first Orthodox service in 88 years. The event is now held annually on August 15 — the Feast of the Assumption.
Visiting Sümela today means stepping into a living monument of Eastern Christianity, art, and history. Located about an hour’s drive from Trabzon, the site is open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., with a €20 entrance fee. Restoration work continues, and in summer, visitors may catch a glimpse of conservators delicately reviving frescoes once thought lost.
While the climb is steep and the weather unpredictable, the experience is unforgettable — part spiritual journey, part architectural wonder, and part time-travel through one of the world’s most resilient religious sites.
How to get there:
Trabzon is a short flight from Istanbul, with multiple daily flights via Turkish Airlines. From Trabzon, guided tours or private vehicles can reach Sümela in just over an hour. A shuttle bus connects the lower parking area to the monastery entrance path.
Where to stay:
Closest to the site is the Sümela Holiday Hotel in Coşandere village. In Trabzon, more options await, including the Radisson Blu perched above the city and the seaside Ramada Plaza offering comfort and convenience.
What to know:
Wear sturdy shoes. Expect crowds in summer. Bring a jacket — even in warmer months, the altitude and forest can bring unexpected chills.
